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South Coast Slog!

Six days since we rounded the corner at Dover and only 160 miles left to do. We had been making cracking progress knocking out more than 30 miles a day and then our old friend, the wind, decided to put in another unseasonable appearance.

We navigated along the coast from Dover to Bexhill in thick fog banks, Force 5 and 6 easterlies blew us round Selsey Bill and up the beach at Hayling Island.

We picked our way through literally 1000s of sailing boats, kite and wind surfers and the odd ferry and tanker in the Solent whilst slogging against a Force 4 gusting 5. Indeed at one point we had to hold station by a channel marker buoy whilst ferries passed either side of us.

We were stunned by how beautiful Beachy Head and the Seven Sisters are from the sea.

We pushed into Bournemouth still with stiff headwinds. The sun was out so we thought it would be a good opportunity to dry kit out in the sunshine and shop for provisions. Of course when we got into town the heavens opened and soaked all our kit. We felt sorry for ourselves, and I questioned what Geoff must have done in a previous life to bring this luck upon us!

Pulling on wet kit we paddled to Swanage past the amazing Old Harry Rocks. We had a chat with the Sailing Club there who kindly let us sleep in their boat yard. We rigged up the most sophisticated tarp system yet to keep the rain off.

It was a tough few days but at least the miles kept tumbling.

Yesterday morning we arrived in Lulworth Cove (along with about a million other people). We could see HMS Bullmark patrolling the Olympic sailing area. A reminder that we need to plot our course carefully over to Portland Bill, around a 12 mile crossing, or we could find ourselves in a spot of bother.

Because of the serious tidal conditions around Portland Bill we have to get the timings right – around a two hour window during the ebb tide. Unfortunately the winds are not playing fair and have pinned us down in Lulworth.

So for only the fourth time on this expedition we have given in to the elements and booked into a B&B. We have both had showers for the first time since north of Newcastle (whether we needed them or not!) and I’m sure the residents of this pretty Dorset Village are grateful.

Slightly disappointed to be held up yet again, but excited by the prospect of paddling into Portscatho Harbour next Tuesday (hopefully!)

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Looking back in these blogs, I realise I often start by saying “lying here in my tent…”. So as not to spoil a tradition….

Lying here in my bivi bag I can see the lights of Cowes. I can also hear Geoff starting to snore. Better pop my ear plugs in.

In the last three days we have covered 109 miles. Feels great to be making such good progress. If we carry on at the same rate and the weather is kind we could just be home a week on Sunday.

In fact that’s what we are now gunning for as Geoff’s wife, Sue, his two daughters and his mum can make it down to the finish if we do by then. And of course i also get to see Tanya and my family sooner too. So long as we paddle at least 35 miles a day it’s possible – but we also know a bad wind day (the weather type) will scupper plans.

Today was a great paddle from South Lansing. We had F4/5/6 Easterlies all day that blew us along the coast. This was effortless paddling and lots of surfing down the wind waves. We made 4knts all day. It was a little lumpy around Selsey Bill and we had to dodge a number of kite and wind surfers all day who were having a ball in the conditions – but other than that we felt like the miles flew by.

To top a great day off – a visit from Ginny and Nigel, some friends of mine. So good of them to drive down to see us and a real boost for the morale as we head into the final week. Thanks guys!

Geoff is still snoring so I am throwing small bits of gravel at his bivi bag. If that doesn’t work, my paddle is within reach! I’ll let you know if it escalates further.

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Bit of a slow day today. Only 16 miles. I picked up a tummy bug the day before the Thames Crossing and think it has finally caught up with me. I’ll spare you the gruesome details of the last two days paddling, some of you may be having your tea. But this afternoon I ran out of energy and so I slept on the beach whilst Geoff wondered around the cafes and galleries of Folkstone. We pushed on this evening to Hythe which is where we are spending our 100th night.

Getting round Dover was a key milestone for us so It was great to tick that one off today. Last night we slept in St Margaret’s Bay and were up at a reasonable 6.30 to get on the water for 8am. From there we could see France only 16 miles or so away. (Odd to think that that wouldn’t count as a long crossing in our books anymore). Indeed neither of us could get a UK carrier on our phones but we could get France Telecom!!

As we rounded the corner towards Dover we popped the cameras on and did our best Veera Lynn impersonations. It wasn’t pretty.

As we approached the massive harbour walls a bank of fog started to descend. Fortunately visibility stayed good enough for us to edge up to the edge of the entrance, look left and right and left again and paddle across. A few minutes later a cross channel ferry entered the harbour. Not close but close enough to give you a sense of how large they are and how small we are.

The stream around the harbour wall accelerates and forms an exciting race which we bounced around on for five minutes or so before we were across the second entrance and away towards Folkstone and reflecting on the fact that we have turned the final corner!

Not long now.

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It’s a Deal!

After an eventful couple of days crossing the Thames Estuary we’re in Deal. Tomorrow morning we’ll be turning right for the last time and start the home straight. Just 350 miles to go!

These photos show what the south coast is all about for us. Relaxed paddling, cafe stops and more cafe stops. For some strange reason we feel more comfortable sitting outside. We have gotten used to people looking at us funny.

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Geoff and I have just climbed into our bivi bags on a sea wall on the Essex Coast. I switched on my phone to see that we have won 6 gold medals today. What a result! The atmosphere must be amazing at the stadium.

Night all….

Why are the boys not making much progress I can hear some if you ask. Ok, so the low pressure system sitting over the Irish Sea is spinning anti clockwise (as they do) and sending a strong southerly wind straight at us. It is meant to be moving eastwards but only slowly. This is making an attempt to cross the estuary over to Margate challenging if not a little foolhardy.

So this morning, after a pleasant enough night by the side of a beach hut, we popped down to the Thames MRCC (Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre) for some advice. There we met Amy, Piers and Matt. What a really helpful and friendly team. We soon forgot what we came in for and were getting a guided tour of their control room and the systems they use. Geoff “I used to be a firefighter” Cater was straight in there asking all the knowledgeable questions while I enjoyed a welcome cuppa.

Piers, who is also a local sailor, helped us plot an alternative route through some of the sand banks, avoiding Shoebury Ness military range, and one that should help us exploit the tides as well.

It will take us a couple of days to get to Margate but at least we’ll be moving again and we’ll see some parts of the estuary not many see, including the resting place of Charles Darwin’s ship HMS Beagle and some old smugglers haunts. The stuff of Charles Dickens.

Will let you know how we get on!

In the meantime, still more eating to be done to keep up spirits and energy levels 🙂

Thanks to the Thames MRCC for all their help!!

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For starters, Staffordshire Chicken and Sage Soup. Mains Staffordshire Chicken Casserole. Followed by Rice Pudding!! Yummy!

Oh and a random beard shot. I think a hedgehog has attached itself to my face!

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The last couple of nights have been firsts for us on this expedition in terms of sleeping locations. The night before last we paddled till 9.30 pm under the light of the full moon until we reached the shingle beach of Orford Ness. Nowhere to pitch a tent so we got the bivi bags out and climbed into our sleeping bags. After a couple of slugs of the Lagavulin we slept surprisingly well!

Up early the next morning we pushed on to Felixtowe. The strong headwinds that have dogged us for a week now prevented us from getting across the shipping lanes that lead to the container port and so we spent the afternoon being amazed by the size of some of the ships coming in and just how fast they seem to travel.

That night we managed to hide the kayaks and ourselves behind a hedge near the pier. No one seemed to be able to see us but we could hear the amusement arcade till late and a few holiday revellers in the early hours. Not the best night’s sleep but then we have gotten used to snatching a nap whenever possible during the day to make up for it.

We got away this morning, dodged a couple of massive container ships heading back to China (we assumed) and made it as far as Walton on the Naze in Essex. Wind is still blowing F5 gusting F6 southerly. It seems this summer’s weather is not prepared to let us finish this expedition just yet.

Our next stop is Margate in Kent. Around a 30 mile crossing from here. Ideally we’d like a northerly to help but a light easterly or westerly would do. Unfortunately it looks like the low pressure sitting over southern Britain is moving east only slowly so we have a call to make over the next 24 hours – head out into a headwind for a 10 hour slog or wait till it dies down or changes direction or both. Right now though it’s time for another cuppa and a toasted tea cake.

Once this crossing is out of the way, it is only 20 more miles to Dover and we’ll then be on the home straight. A long one admittedly.

The wildlife sightings now are still frequent but just different. Less seals and birdlife but plenty of human behaviour to observe along the beaches and amusement arcades.

It has been great catching up on the stories about the GB medal rush at the Olympics. We are trying to stay in touch with all the excitement so our time off the water is usually filled with reading newspapers, eating, surfing the BBC Olympic web site and eating again. Did I mention that we eat a lot? In fact I think we have both put on weight since we started. Is that possible?

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A few blogs ago, when we were somewhere at the top of Britain, I wrote about the West of England MS Therapy Centre, one of the charities we are supporting. In this little blog I say a little more about two of the others we are also supporting: Over The Wall and Help For Heroes.

Over The Wall

Over The Wall is a national children’s charity. It’s purpose is to provide life-changing experiences to children and young people aged 8-17 who are affected by serious and life limiting illnesses. They do this by offering free activity camps specifically developed to foster coping, resilience, self-esteem and confidence. Campers get a chance to take part in the sort of games and adventures that they are usually excluded from because their school can’t cope with their medical challenges or perhaps because they have been hospitalised for a long time.

Having volunteered for this charity for several years, Tanya and I have experienced first hand how life changing the camps can be for the families and for the volunteers too. But don’t take my word for it, here is what some of them have said:


“You all made me feel like a normal boy, and I loved that because at my school the kids don’t treat me like that. I’d love camp to last forever, if my Nan could come too.”
– Camper

“The camp was one of the best experiences that Matthew has had I have never seen him so enthused! He came home and said at school nobody wants him in their team but at camp he found a team that accepted people for who they are without prejudice. A fantastic time.” – Parent

“Once again a huge Thank You to all involved, especially the volunteers. My nephew is going to apply to volunteer as he was very much affected by Ellie’s chat. Ellie had a fantastic time she clearly felt respected for being ‘her’ which doesn’t always happen in school. She was full of chat too about all aspects of camp. The whole ethos clearly lends itself to making a life changing camp, volunteers are well chosen.” – Parent

“ The Over The Wall camp is the best thing that has ever happened to us as a family.”-Parent – Scotland Camp

Help for Heroes

Help for Heroes perhaps needs less introduction as to it’s purpose and motivation. But I think these quotes illustrate nicely the many ways in which it has made a very real difference to service men and women’s lives.

Thank you so much for the road bike that was funded for me via Battle Back. Physical activity and exercise has always played a huge role in my life and now, after 3 ½ years of hospital treatment and rehabilitation, I can look forward to keeping fit and taking on a few challenges. The bike will be central to those efforts. So, thank you to Help for Heroes for their generosity to me personally and also, with my ‘senior calamity’ hat on, for the quite tremendous practical support it provides every day for some very damaged but special young Servicemen and women and their families. They deserve nothing less and when H4H is involved, will receive nothing less. Thank you!

The support that has been given to me by Help for Heroes is very overwhelming from financing a picture framing course and examination to the building of my workshop.

Help for Heroes have helped me and others get back into an active lifestyle, whether it be things like RAAM or the BBBR. They have also helped me with funding for equipment etc.

I am truly grateful for the support I have received from Help for Heroes, it has enabled me to compete as an international athlete, which I would never have thought possible.

Support from little gestures to large scale projects that have helped me through rehab. An amazing support network for me and my family! A true ‘Band of Brothers.’

H4H has given me and other Service personnel the opportunities to try new things and to see other soldiers with serious injuries, both different and similar to my own, striving under adversity, has given me the confidence to move forward and remains a constant reminder of who we are. We are different! H4H has recognised that fact and given us all a chance to be the very best we can post injury! I hope that I can continue to be an inspiration and mentor to other soldiers who are coming to terms with life changing injuries.

To me, Help for Heroes means love, support and friendship.

If you can help us in any way to help these two charities continue to make a difference please click on our donate button on our blog menu.

THANK YOU!!

Friday night we wild camped at Gibraltar Point (aka south Skegness). The sunset cast a deep orange glow across the sky and we could just make out the lights on the north Norfolk coast as it got darker. It was an eerily quiet evening. I guess most were glued to the TV watching the opening ceremony. I climbed into my tent, pulled out the iPhone and to my surprise I had a great signal and was able to join about 1 billion others who also watched opening ceremony. Thought it was brilliant. Pitched perfectly and made me feel very proud to be British.

Saturday morning was a short hop across the Wash – 17 miles. A key milestone as it means we have only one more significant crossing left – the Thames Estuary. We managed to get stream all the way and landed the other side in under 4 hours. The Wash is a tidal gate so north of it the flood tide flows south and ebb north, south of it and it’s the other way round. That means if you time it right you can cross with stream all the way. We did and it was glorious to average over 4.5knts!

We pushed on further to Wells Next to the Sea where my sister, Jane and her family together with my mum were waiting to meet us. It was so good to see them. And so good of them to make the journey to see us. Thanks guys! A visit like this at the start of the trip would have been hard emotionally I think to say goodbye again but now as we approach the final stages it is almost a welcome home visit. A good morale booster.

Sunday we made it as far as Bacton Gas Terminal and as I finish writing this blog update in my tent on the sea defences this Monday morning I can hear it hum in the background.

The paddle yesterday was great. 30 miles with mostly a tail wind and good stream in our favour most of the way. The only excitement for the day was getting caught in a massive thunder storm. We saw the dark cloud coming over. Geoff had spotted a nice cafe and some shelter. He suggested we stop but I thought it would miss us and we should paddle on. Got that one wrong.

We popped our video cameras on to record the torrential rain which flattened the sea and bounced back up a few Inches to create a mist like layer over the water. Just as we were marvelling in the scene the lightening and thunder started. We made our way to shore but no place to land because of the sea defences along this coast. So we carried on, hunkering down trying to stop the rain going down our necks. Didn’t work. Forked lighting now and hail stones. Painful on the hands so we rafted up for a few minutes. And then it was over. Can’t wait to see that footage when we get back!

Aiming for south of Gt Yarmouth today!

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