Midlifekayak

Today we paddled 34 miles from Scourie, round Cape Wrath and on to Durness. Winds were much calmer than they have been but the swell was up which made for a lively day. Lots of puffins, skuas and even a couple of orca spotted today! Here’s a short video update from the bearded duo!

First an apology if you have been looking at the ‘Our Progress’ and wondering why we’re stuck just off Priest Island in the Summer Isles for the last couple of days. In fact we’re in Durness about 7 miles East of Cape Wrath. The Spot device isn’t always showing our latest position for some reason.

However, if you haven’t already, you can always check out Tanya’s daily reports on our progress on our Facebook page “Midlifekayak”. As well as a summary of our day she also provides very useful (and funny) facts about things we’ve seen or places we’ve stayed in along the way!

Geoff and I have found the last few days quite tough. The paddling has been challenging but ok. The wild camping has been amazing too. But we were starting to feel a little different about the expedition. It was a bit difficult to put our fingers on it but talking it through we think we now understand.

Yes the paddling is hard and the living rough out of the kayaks can get a bit draining but by far the toughest challenge is what goes in in your head. We have developed many strategies for breaking down the 100 days and 2,500 miles into manageable chunks. We’ve aimed for milestones like getting across the Bristol Channel and into Wales, back into England and in particular getting to Scotland. We have always told ourselves the West Coast of Scotland will be the best bit of paddling and that we’ll not notice the miles.

We have strategies for each day too. If its a long crossing we’ll paddle 2 or 3 miles, stop for a drink and a snack and repeat (up to 10 or 12 times often). If we’re hugging the coast more, we’ll try and paddle 10 by 10. That’s 10 miles by 10am. Then stop for a second breakfast and do a second 10. Stop for lunch and then push on for the final stint (aiming for at least 25 miles wind permitting). Then of course talking about all the food we’ll eat when we stop for the evening usually helps too.

The psychology has pretty much worked. Except now that we have nearly finished the west coast and still not quite half way, the enormity of the distance left hit us both quite hard for a few days. Up until this point we always took one day at a time and were pleasantly surprised each week to see the progress we made. Geoff likens it to the middle part of a long distance race, the hard miles still to do before the sprint starts. Our sprint starts at Dover.

So the last couple of days we have been chatting about the milestones that will get us through the second half. Cape Wrath (no more north) John O’ Groats (heading south again), back into England, seeing my brother Mike and his daughter Hannah, seeing Roger and Salome (and new baby!) and hopefully Tanya in Newcastle and so on…..

There are five other very good coping strategies to help us for the next 8 weeks. And that’s the charities that we are supporting along the way.

Over the next week or so we’ll say a little more about each charity and the work they do. First up is a lovely note from Liz about her experiences of the West of England Therapy Centre.

“My name is Liz and I am a member of The West of England MS Therapy Centre. I want to say a huge thank you to the Midlifekayakers for raising money for the Centre.
The West of England MS Therapy Centre has been an essential lifeline for me and countless others over the years. I come here to use the treatments – oxygen therapy and acupuncture – as well as for friendship and understanding.
I was diagnosed when I was 29. My MS came on after having my son who is now 3 years old and very active! I find, like many others, that my symptoms and relapses can flare up without warning. This affects my ability to live a normal life. I am a Mum as well as an MS survivor and the Centre helps me to be the best I can be. The oxygen in particular helps me to deal with deadening fatigue and my toddler!
Our Centre needs in excess of £400,000 each year to keep providing this vital service to people who have Multiple Sclerosis. We do not receive any statutory or government funding, raising all the money needed ourselves. There is little help available for individuals through the NHS to help manage day to day symptoms so the oxygen therapy, physiotherapy, exercise classes, reflexology, acupuncture, aromatherapy, reiki and counselling is absolutely essential for the growing MS population in and around greater Bristol & South Gloucestershire.
To date I believe Andy & Geoff have raised £4,000 for the Centre, just part of the £9000 in total they have raised for good causes with their brave expedition. I am currently sitting in the oxygen tank writing this as I wanted to wish you good luck and many thanks as it makes a huge difference.“

It had been a slog of a day, those northerly and north easterly winds have been very persistent. We had left our stunning campsite just north of Applecross around 9am and paddled north through the submarine training area between Raasay and the mainland. Just as we launched a helicopter buzzed low overhead and landed, must have dropped off MOD staff at the control station looking out over the training area. We were hoping we would see a sub surface (but not too close). I was reminded of a very funny joke my dad told me about a wireless operator on board a sub and a pair of cuff links. I told it to Geoff and we both giggled, but sorry, it’s Cert 18 rated I’m afraid. But ask me next time you see me.

After the first couple of hours the wind picked up again and as usual was in our faces for most of the rest of the day. But no complaints, the gorgeous scenery and wildlife make it all worthwhile. Whilst we have seen hundreds of seals on this trip we are always pleased to see them. They often appear behind us as we paddle by, so sometimes we’ll paddle backwards to catch them out and get a closer look and a photo.

Geoff has become the Bill Oddie of the expedition having now spotted 3 sea otters and 2 incredibly rare sea eagles.

The landscape has definitely changed since we paddled north of Skye. A little more rugged, fewer trees, and less protection from the Atlantic swell from the islands.

We were aiming for Melvaig. A small village just north of Gairloch. But first we needed to stock up on provisions. The rate at which we are eating and depleting our stores is quite scary. We saw a large camp site at Big Sand and guessed that it must have a shop, it would be the last we’d see for a couple of days. It did!

As 27 miles appeared on our GPS we could see Melvaig. We could also see the massive bolders on the beach. From a distance it looks like shingle but as you get closer you realise it is impossible to land on. Fortunately a brand new slipway had been built so we were able to land relatively easily and pull the kayaks up beyond the high tide mark.

Once we had cleared the sheep poo away from a nearby patch of grass we pitched the tents and got changed.

Imagine how jammy we felt when we walked up a steep path 100 yards and found the only pub for miles around. The Melvaig Inn was superb. Run by the ex sound man for Pink Floyd and Mark Knoffler, it has a very quirky and friendly feel to it.

So 1000 miles done and nearly half way!

This morning just north of Applecross and also a piccy of our campsite last night….

Great news, as we approach the 900 mile mark, we have now raised just over £9,000!

Thank you all so much for your generosity!!

Andy and Geoff

Succumbing to some recent demand for more beard photos…..here are a couple of close ups. If you look closely in Geoff’s beard you can see what he’s been eating over the last few days.