Midlifekayak

“Geoff, what’s that round orange thing in the sky? It hurts when I look at it.”

Yes indeed. For ten minutes this morning the sun made an appearance. And like a couple of beached seals we stretched out in the sunshine.

Off to Crail today ready to cross the Firth of Forth tomorrow!

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Hooray! On the move again. After being pinned down in Portsoy for 3 days with F6 northerlies and heavy swell, we made a break for it yesterday and despite some dramatic clapotis in the first few miles we managed 30 miles to Inverallochy, just south of Fraserburgh.

So good to get back in the water!

Portsoy was a nice place to get stuck in however and we now know all the cafes, pubs and bakers pretty well – so if you are visiting and want some tips, let me know. Highlight though had to be a lightening fast visit from my brother, Mike and his daughter Hannah. They had travelled from London by train and then hired a car to come and see us only to have to turn around the next day and head back! So great to see them if only for a few hours.

Ok so the journey to Inverallochy was uneventful, we pulled into the old harbour and pitched our tents just metres form the water. Just a few hundred yards off shore lays the wreck of a prawn trawler. It had run aground five years ago and the sea has since managed to tear open it’s hull on one side. Talking to some local fisherman, apparently the skipper had fallen asleep as he came into Fraserburgh Harbour. No one hurt except the skippers ego.

I said the journey to Inverallochy had been uneventful but that changed when we landed. The same fishermen had popped down the harbour because they had had a call from a friend in Fraserburgh to say that a pod of Orca were heading our way. We spent the next half hour watching between 5-7 Orca making their way south. Stunning!

This morning we were up at 4am to catch the last of the flood tide round Rattray Head. We were clearly back in seal territory (suspect it wouldn’t be for long if the Orca appeared here). We saw several large colonies. We paddled 34 miles and as we pulled into Newburgh this evening we paddled up the river a few hundred yards to camp and were greeted by the sight of around 200-300 seals! Talking with the gillie, apparently they love the area because of the trout that make their way up river to spawn.

He also cleared it for us to camp in a great little spot. Back on the water again at 6am and off to Aberdeen for breakie.

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Well today was a much shorter one after our 44 mile and 12.45 am finish yesterday (or rather early this morning)

We woke and peered outside the tent to see the stunning Spey Bay. A gull was chasing an Osprey over the mouth of the river and the sun was beginning to come out from the blanket of cloud that seems to have followed us down the east coast.

The kayaks were perched on top of a shingle mound, the tide now well out. Anyone passing might have wondered how they got up so high.

We had camped in the dark hoping we had found the Dolphin Centre and Wild Cafe. We had.

We made a plan for the day from the comfort of our tents. First things first, breakfast. Alpen and Weetabix Chez Kayak (alfresco). At 10.30 we’d be in the cafe for a large cuppucino. Then we’d paddle 25 miles. Ok so the first breakfast was consumed on time. We started the second in the cafe on time at 10.30. However, a variant in the plan was introduced about 12 midday, when I suggested lunch.

Truth was we were feeling tired from the day before and felt confident that 6 or 7 hours would be enough for a 25 miler.

So we were on the water just after 13.00. After around 7 miles we could start to make out the details of Findochty harbour. We needed a pint of milk and that looked like the best place to stop as it was on a headland an so no need to add mileage by pulling into a bay.

Just as I looked up from the map trying to determine the best route in to the harbour, two dolphins broke the surface and flipped over, opposite directions to each other. I called over to Geoff, we both turned our cameras on and paddled over to get a closer look.

Over the next 15 mins we felt like we were in the middle of a dolphin dual carriage way as pod made it’s way towards Spey Bay from where we had come from. Our kayaks were on the central reservation as they passed both sides sometimes as close as 6 feet. Hopefully some of the video shots will come out.

Finally when they all seemed to have passed, we pushed into the harbour. There was a group of kids jumping off the wall and climbing up again to do the same. Reminded me of Portscatho harbour in the summer, except this one was twice as high – brave kids! We stopped and filmed some of them jumping in just in front of our boats.

Geoff popped up the road for milk while I checked our map and route. Truth was we weren’t going to make 25 miles today. The sea state was up, there was a fairly heavy swell coming in from the North East and that was bouncing off the cliffs now and creating quite a heavy sea. So we agreed to aim for Portsoy – that would be 16 miler. We rationalised that that was still 60 miles over the 2 days and so was good progress.

We encountered some severe clapotis over those last 8 miles or so and whilst we could handle the conditions fine it was a relief to pull into the calm shelter of Portsoy, and before the forecast strong winds had arrived.

A few children had spotted us on the way in and followed the kayaks to the slipway where we had landed. They and their parents came over to chat. Pretty soon the children were sitting in the boats, trying on the helmets and trying out all out gadgets – radios, GPS etc.

Such a lovely couple of families. We chatted to them for quite a while about the area, their backgrounds, why they loved where they live. They asked us about our trip and the adventures we have had.

To be honest, we are always a little taken back by the enthusiastic reaction we get when we tell people what we’re doing. It does seem to ignite something inside people. Maybe our story sparks thoughts of the adventures they have had or would like to have. I hope so, and if it encourages people to go out and do something like this for themselves that would be fab. We are just two ordinary blokes (now with out of control facial hair) and very average paddlers with some time on our hands – if we can do this…well then…

Meeting lovely interesting people like this at the end of a day is a real highlight for both of us on this trip. We both reflected later just how moved we have been by the warmth and kindness of people.

As we said our goodbyes they very generously gave us a donation for our charities. Ten minutes later one of them was back – with a fish n chip supper for us! Lump in throat time.

Guys I know you and the kids will be checking the website this morning. I’m sorry I didn’t collect your names but you know who you are (and just to make sure that’s your children in the photos!). It was lovely to meet you and thank you for your generosity!

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Well after a couple more weather bound days in Brora the wind had died down just leaving the thick fog so we decided to chance the 27 mile crossing to Burghhead (via Tarbet). We popped the co-ordinates into the GPS and set off on a bearing of 170 degrees.

Visibility was down to 100 yards or so. Quite peaceful paddling at sea surrounded by a blanket of fog. Although it is a little unnerving when the GPS says you only have 0.4 mile to go and you still can’t see land. You start wondering whether you entered the co-ordinates correctly!

But we had and after a brief stop over at Tarbet we pushed on to Burghead. We pulled into the harbour and asked Jake Hay, a fisherman from Orkney, if there was a cafe nearby. There wasn’t, but he kindly invited us on board his trawler, “The Illustrious” and made us a tea. How cool Is that!

We pushed on another 7 miles to Lossiemouth where we planned to camp but we were feeling so good we decided to get a takeaway and do another 7 miles to Spey Bay. That’s a total of 44 miles today – not bade. Mind you paddling till 1am is not what we plan to do everyday but hey makes up for some of the lost time.

We pitched our tents by a little cafe at the mouth of the Spey. Hope they open early!

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We spent last night at the Inver Caravan Site and B&Bin Dunbeath. It’s run by Rhona Gwillim and her husband. Such a lovely couple and a fabulous site. If you need a place to stay up here then book yourself in – you won’t regret it.

We enjoyed their company so much we didn’t launch till 10.30 today. Still only 25 miles to do. Wind was forecast to be F4-5 and North Easterly and so it was for most of the way – helping to push us south west down the coast towards Brora. We stopped off at Helmsdale for a bite to eat before knocking out the last ten miles. Unfortunately the wind had picked up now and was frequently gusting F6. That was fine as it was still helping, except the waves and swell were picking up too.

Geoff and I could no longer chat as we were starting to concentrate a little more. One eye on keeping the kayaks straight in the following sea, one eye on each other, and another eye on the incoming cresting swells that threatened to knock us sideways. I know, that’s three.

The miles ticked away fast but we were both conscious that what was helping us now might turn round and bite our bums as we tried to land.

We were aiming for a campsite just off the beach on the east of Brora. Worryingly the sets were getting quite large as we approached and so we had to call off that idea. We were frequently losing sight of each other as we disappeared into troughs. We moved on a couple of miles thinking we would get into the harbour. It has a narrow entrance which unfortunately was getting the full force of the swell and because it was just after low water it was pretty rough and surrounded by rocks. No good either.

Just when we both thought we might be spending the night paddling around trying to find a place to land we spotted a rocky reef which afforded some protection behind it for us to land. We paddled hard back out against the wind and avoiding the now barrelling waves, and ducked into the sheltered landing area. Bit of a carry but at least we were on land.

Easily our hardest landing so far.

Found a great pub in town, great food and a great whiskey collection! Now camping out behind the beach.

Little video attached

Oh and 1225 miles completed now….

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What the rain sounds like from inside my tent…..

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Geoff and Andy do their bit for Scottish Tourism (not sure it’s going to help!)

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Today we paddled 34 miles from Scourie, round Cape Wrath and on to Durness. Winds were much calmer than they have been but the swell was up which made for a lively day. Lots of puffins, skuas and even a couple of orca spotted today! Here’s a short video update from the bearded duo!

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First an apology if you have been looking at the ‘Our Progress’ and wondering why we’re stuck just off Priest Island in the Summer Isles for the last couple of days. In fact we’re in Durness about 7 miles East of Cape Wrath. The Spot device isn’t always showing our latest position for some reason.

However, if you haven’t already, you can always check out Tanya’s daily reports on our progress on our Facebook page “Midlifekayak”. As well as a summary of our day she also provides very useful (and funny) facts about things we’ve seen or places we’ve stayed in along the way!

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Geoff and I have found the last few days quite tough. The paddling has been challenging but ok. The wild camping has been amazing too. But we were starting to feel a little different about the expedition. It was a bit difficult to put our fingers on it but talking it through we think we now understand.

Yes the paddling is hard and the living rough out of the kayaks can get a bit draining but by far the toughest challenge is what goes in in your head. We have developed many strategies for breaking down the 100 days and 2,500 miles into manageable chunks. We’ve aimed for milestones like getting across the Bristol Channel and into Wales, back into England and in particular getting to Scotland. We have always told ourselves the West Coast of Scotland will be the best bit of paddling and that we’ll not notice the miles.

We have strategies for each day too. If its a long crossing we’ll paddle 2 or 3 miles, stop for a drink and a snack and repeat (up to 10 or 12 times often). If we’re hugging the coast more, we’ll try and paddle 10 by 10. That’s 10 miles by 10am. Then stop for a second breakfast and do a second 10. Stop for lunch and then push on for the final stint (aiming for at least 25 miles wind permitting). Then of course talking about all the food we’ll eat when we stop for the evening usually helps too.

The psychology has pretty much worked. Except now that we have nearly finished the west coast and still not quite half way, the enormity of the distance left hit us both quite hard for a few days. Up until this point we always took one day at a time and were pleasantly surprised each week to see the progress we made. Geoff likens it to the middle part of a long distance race, the hard miles still to do before the sprint starts. Our sprint starts at Dover.

So the last couple of days we have been chatting about the milestones that will get us through the second half. Cape Wrath (no more north) John O’ Groats (heading south again), back into England, seeing my brother Mike and his daughter Hannah, seeing Roger and Salome (and new baby!) and hopefully Tanya in Newcastle and so on…..

There are five other very good coping strategies to help us for the next 8 weeks. And that’s the charities that we are supporting along the way.

Over the next week or so we’ll say a little more about each charity and the work they do. First up is a lovely note from Liz about her experiences of the West of England Therapy Centre.

“My name is Liz and I am a member of The West of England MS Therapy Centre. I want to say a huge thank you to the Midlifekayakers for raising money for the Centre.
The West of England MS Therapy Centre has been an essential lifeline for me and countless others over the years. I come here to use the treatments – oxygen therapy and acupuncture – as well as for friendship and understanding.
I was diagnosed when I was 29. My MS came on after having my son who is now 3 years old and very active! I find, like many others, that my symptoms and relapses can flare up without warning. This affects my ability to live a normal life. I am a Mum as well as an MS survivor and the Centre helps me to be the best I can be. The oxygen in particular helps me to deal with deadening fatigue and my toddler!
Our Centre needs in excess of £400,000 each year to keep providing this vital service to people who have Multiple Sclerosis. We do not receive any statutory or government funding, raising all the money needed ourselves. There is little help available for individuals through the NHS to help manage day to day symptoms so the oxygen therapy, physiotherapy, exercise classes, reflexology, acupuncture, aromatherapy, reiki and counselling is absolutely essential for the growing MS population in and around greater Bristol & South Gloucestershire.
To date I believe Andy & Geoff have raised £4,000 for the Centre, just part of the £9000 in total they have raised for good causes with their brave expedition. I am currently sitting in the oxygen tank writing this as I wanted to wish you good luck and many thanks as it makes a huge difference.“

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