I’d love to tell you that the Aran Islands are every bit as beautiful as their reputation. Unfortunately we didn’t see them. We landed in thick fog and we left in thick fog.
We did however have a restful stay in the Pier House B&B, run by a man who had fished for herring in the area for 40 years. We made sure we picked up any advice he had to offer about the waters ahead. We also consumed a huge quantity of calories in our 15 hour stay including what has to be the best Irish stew we’ve ever had (washed down with a couple of pints of Guiness).
We left Kilronan in sunshine but as we left the harbour the fog came in. We were headed to the Connemara coastline – Golam Head – around a 9 mile open crossing. We set off on a northwest bearing and soon lost sight of all land. Surrounded in an earie shroud. Other than our compasses, the only clue to our direction was the westerly swell and wind chop.
A couple of hours later and Golam Head started to emerge through the fog. As we rounded the headland the fog cleared and the sun out in an appearance which made navigating the last 15 miles to Roundstone a little easier.
This stretch of water is littered with rocky outcrops over which any swell breaks violently. Fortunately for us the swell was slight today.
The wind, as ever, was in our faces and our progress slow but miles ticked by – probably the Guiness and Irish stew fuel.
The Connemara mountains provide a dramatic backdrop to our campsite (whenever the cloud base lifts) – today we are off the water as the winds have strengthened. But we hope to get round Slyne Head tomorrow and up to Inishturk.
In the meantime – exploring beautiful Roundstone…
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