Tough choice this morning, paddle in F7 gusting F9 and pouring rain, or a full Welsh Breakfast in St Davids.
So writing this as we tuck into our second breakfast…..
We are well used to being weather bound on these expeditions. We have been blessed with fine conditions over the first 9 days and we have made the most of it to get in position to make the crossing to Rosslare.
Before we set off we gave ourselves a couple of weeks to get here so we could make the crossing on neap tides when the stream through the George’s Channel would be at a minimum. We have arrived ahead of schedule, and although the weather has turned, we will make the most of the opportunity to recuperate and be ready for our biggest challenge of the whole expedition.
Home made baked beansWhitesands before the weather changed Healthy breakie on Whitesands
Our list of minor ailments so far:
– A few blisters (of course)
– A little bit of sunburn
and
– With all the beans and lentils we are eating, chronic flatulence
(Too much information?)
For the 55 mile open water crossing we need light winds coming from NNE to SE. We are well used to paddling in very strong winds but for this crossing we have raised the bar on our safety margins.
So far, Thursday looks like it might be the day. We’ll keep an eye on the forecast and make the decision the night before we set off.
In the meantime, we shall continue our tour of the cafes in St Davids.
Thank you for the very generous donations to our three charities!!
Unbeknown to me, Tanya has helpfully labelled some of my kit so it won’t get mixed up with Geoff’s. What a sweetie!
Cold bivi last night. We were both glad when it was time to get up and get under way and warm up in the morning sunshine. We hadn’t managed to stock up on provisions the previous day so breakfast was a bit odd: slices of Edam, slightly stale bread roll, couple of dates and a banana.
This part of the coast has some extraordinary bird colonies and we have been enjoying seeing the thousands and thousands of nesting sea birds including guillemots, razor bills and as we approached Skomer, more and more puffins. We have also seen plenty of gannets too.
This coast also has some exhilarating tides. Last night we flew along passed Skomer in the races at around 8 knots (we normally paddle at 4 knots). This morning we picked up the same stream and flew off to Ramsey Island and the famous tide race called The Bitches (which makes me grin as it’s also the name that Tanya and her friends give to themselves at their Tuesday afternoon Stitch and Bitch sessions).
The Bitches is famous amongst kayakers for being both exciting and terrifying in equal measure. Geoff and I had passed through with our mate Mike back in 2012 when we went round Britain. We remembered the fast and bumpy ride back then.
So as we approached Ramsey Sound we were looking forward to seeing what top speed we might get on the way through. It looked ok from half a mile out, a few “ripples” on the surface but no mountains of standing waves waiting for us. 5 knots became 6, 6 became 7 and so on until as the wind was whistling in our ears we hit 11 knots. Both concentrating on staying upright in the bouncing confused waters, we were both thrilled at the ground we were covering. Geoff continued to call out the amazing speeds he was seeing on his GPS as I saw two rather violent steep waves coming towards me at different directions. Hit one, bounced off the other and into an eddy. I was still upright but now facing the wrong way. Rather than punch back across the eddy line into the main stream, I chose what looked like a slower current. After that adrenaline moment I was quite happy to bounce along at 7 knots rather than 11.
Meanwhile I scanned ahead for Geoff, he was easily a ⅓ mile ahead.
The race carries on for over a mile and we were headed for Whitesands Bay just at the end of the Sound. We paddled furiously to get out on the stream and into the relative peace of the bay.
A cheeky little surf later and we landed and pitched our tents in a great little campsite.
Now in position to attempt our Ireland crossing. The question is when???
St Martins HavenSt David’s after an adrenaline filled morning St David’s CathedralThe only casualty through The Bitches
Definitely have to come back and see Lundy at a more relaxed pace. Absolutely stunning. Incredible birdlife and the people living and working on the Island were so friendly. We climbed the steep hill up to the campsite with 2 Ikea bags of kit each (we did have to stop on the way to catch our breath).
By the time we got there news had already had already spread that we were the kayakers that had just landed. News travels fast on the island!
Two dinners that night, homemade baked beans and then into the tavern for part 2. Great thing about being on expedition is you can eat loads!
As we climbed down the next morning, a little easier than the climb up, the massive 8.4m tide was in had changed the landscape in front of us.
There was a fairly thick fog over the Channel, visibility was around 300m or so but we could occasionally see the sun above us trying to burn it off.
We headed off on a 350 degree heading towards Stackpole Head knowing that we would be taken east by the ebb tide for most of the day and west again a bit for the last couple of hours. Well that was the plan.
Conditions were perfect as we pushed through the races at the north end of the island and into the fog. Fog can be so disorienting so we had to concentrate on the compass heading.
We both love kayaking in fog. It is somehow so peaceful. Every so often a sea bird would appear just bobbing around blissfully in of our presence.
Over the course of the next 10 hours we saw seals, guillemots, razorbills, puffins, gannets, shearwaters and dolphins. Delightful interruptions to the monotony of paddling.
The fog lifted after about 3 hours. Though we would not see land until hour 6.
We broke the journey into 1 hour chunks, stopping for a drink, snack and a pee. Food and water is so important for morale and energy on these longer paddles.
Finally we could make out our destination on the horizon but seemed to take an age to get there. Probably because it did!
We had quite a debate over the last couple of hours about which feature was actually our destination. In the last couple of miles we got a phone out and booted up our Boating app and could see that we were about a mile off where we thought we were. Not bad after 41 miles mostly in fog. Our longest open water crossing to date.
We pulled up the boats on a gloriously sunny evening into Stackpole Quay where we would bivi for the night.
The next morning would be a slower start. We have 2 days to get ourselves into position to cross the Irish Sea on Sunday. The biggest challenge on this expedition.
The next morning we met David and Charlotte over breakfast. A lovely couple on a two day break. David is hoping to complete his 100 marathon this year! Blimey now that really is a challenge.
Just a very quick update. After a long day in saddle, we left Lundy in a fog bank this morning at 8.20 and landed at Stackpole Quay Pembrokeshire after a 41 mile crossing across Bristol Channel. Great day, will do a fuller write up tomorrow.
Big thanks to Elizabeth for letting us use her house in Port Gaverne. Our first shower in 6 Days. Not sure we really needed it (ha!) but we took advantage of the opportunity.
Port Gaverne was a great example of why we love doing these trips – the people you meet. As soon as we landed the harbour master Adam came over to see if we needed anything. He even gave us a lift up the hill and offered to store our kayaks for us.
On the water the following morning against the stream for first 3 hours/10 miles knowing it would turn in our favour for the last 22 miles or so. We stopped and refuelled on toasties in Boscastle. The tide was so low we had to land outside the harbour and walk up the river to the cafe.
Back on the water the stream was in our favour. For the first time this trip we sang a few songs to keep spirits high and as we hugged the coastline and had a chance to marvel at the amazing rock formations and waterfalls cascading over the north Cornwall and then Devonian cliffs.
As we approached Hartland Quay at High Water we could see it might be a tricky landing. The swell was looking a little lively and breaking over a reef. A little adrenaline rush for the end of the day. We hauled the boats up, changed into some warm clothes and had a rehydrated meal.
Till now all of our days have been pretty straight forward. Just making progress along the coast in whatever conditions we are faced with. However, over the next few days we have some of the most challenging days of the whole expedition: crossings to Lundy, Pembrokeshire and Ireland.
Today we tackled the first of those. We up early, ate breakfast and were packed away by 8am. We hatched a plan to make the crossing to Lundy – it would be a relatively short day but a very technical one. The tidal stream that flows in and out of the Bristol Channel can move pretty quickly especially when we are on Spring Tides (which we are). It is possible to get close to Lundy only for the tide to sweep you away in the opposite direction. There are also a couple of tricky tide races on the south of the island that you need to avoid.
We decided to launch 3 hours before the end of the ebbing tide, heading NNW with the aim of being directly south of Lundy before the flood tide commenced. That would allow some contingency if we were slower than planned and the flood tide started to take us east again.
As it turned out we had perfect conditions, other than Lundy was hidden in a fog bank. So we had to trust our calculations and hope for the best. After about half of the 13 mile crossing, Lundy started to appear out of the fog. If we had our plan right, Lundy would appear on our starboard bow and slowly move across to our port bow. “By jove it worked!”
Landed after 3 hours and 50 mins.
Wildlife highlight of the day we saw our first Puffins!
Just over 112 miles covered over our first 4 days. A few blisters and aches, and slightly swollen fingers from being wet most of the time but we are both feeling good.
We left St Ives a little later than we would normally but given we only climbed into our bivi bags just after midnight we felt justified in the 10.15 start. We had time for a wander round beautiful St Ives before everything got too busy and grabbed a coffee. We waved to Tanya through a harbour webcam and then sat down to a decent breakfast at the cafe/restaurant that had kindly let us kip down under their decking area which meant we were mostly protected from the overnight rain.
After the painful process of unpacking the kayaks, carrying them down the beach and repacking them we were back on the water and all was right with the world again.
More stunning coastline, Guillemots, Seals, Razorbills, Gannets an unidentified fin (!), lots of climbers, caves and beaches full of bank holiday crowds who would have no idea we were paddling away miles off shore.
A quick stop at St Agnes for lunch where we met the lovely Debs from Portscatho, and a slightly technical launch given the lack of beach, with an audience. So no pressure then. Executed smoothly and we were on our way again.
Next stop Newquay harbour. A quick drink in the Newquay Rowing Club bar and a chat with the Club Secretary and we managed to secure a place to bivi under shelter. We had plans to cook ourselves that night but I spotted a pizza place so that was that.
Next day and guess what, more of the same. We won’t bore you with the same details in these blogs from now on (unless you want us to!) but you get the idea. Each day is an adventure but with the same pattern.
We took a direct line to Trevose Head starting against the tide and wind for the first 2 hours. But then slowly the water changed we noticed the stream against the lobster pot markers was in our favour and our speed lifted from 2.5 mph to around 4.5 mph. The tide race around Trevose Head gave us a sling shot round the corner as we headed towards Gunver Head, Port Quin, Port Isaac and finally Port Gaverne our destination. A slightly shorter day of 20 miles as there is no where to get out for another we while.
Today (Day 5) we leave Cornwall and into Devon and Hartland Quay.
Thank you for all the generous donations to our charities! Blown away by the support you have shown.
Over the last 14 years of paddling together, Geoff and I have learned so much about how our bodies and more importantly, our minds, react to the daily routine of eating, sleeping and paddling. We have developed all sorts of coping strategies for the mind and food and stretching strategies for bodies too.
But there are days on an expedition that are difficult to explain or understand. Days when your body and mind is aching and telling you you’ve gone far enough and days when you seem to want to paddle on forever. Today, very unusually for so early in an expedition we had one of the latter.
We set off from Mullion for our first significant open water crossing to Lamorna. With the help of an easterly we crossed Mounts Bay in 3.5 hours. Unfortunately we couldn’t land at the slip way at Lamorna, so after some cheese and biscuits sitting in the boats we pushed on.
The easterly wind had by now created quite a chop as we headed towards Lands End. The chop was bouncing off the cliffs and back out to sea creating clapotis. It was a bouncy ride. We had a flood tide against us but knew that when we got round the corner, the same tide would help us going north. After fighting the confused waters at Lands End where the tide splits, we enjoyed the lively ride into Sennen.
We landed in the harbour and carried the boats up the hard a little and headed for the Sennen Cove Cafe. Not one but two lunches each.
We had covered best part of 23 miles and over lunch we scanned the our various apps for a suitable spot to spend the night. We found one about 7 miles further on. Just round the corner from Pendeen. 7 miles was about right we thought especially as we were both nursing a couple of aches and pains.
30 miles would be a very decent day 2 on an expedition as we are still getting paddling fit. You can do all the training you like but when you paddle day after day after day with fully laden boats your body does adapt even more.
It is a stunning bit of coastline, with so much to see, granite cliffs, Manx Shearwaters, Guillemots, lots of Portuguese Man of War and old Cornish tin mines. This is why we sea kayak. Anyone who spends time at sea knows what a special environment it is, how you get a very different view of the world.
We pushed round the corner at Pendeen Light house expecting a short while later to find the cove we had seen on our apps. No not that one, maybe the next one, maybe the next one and so it went on. After an hour we realised that either we had missed it or maybe it wasn’t the amazing camping spot we thought it was.
The challenge we had was this is a committed stretch of coastline with no where really to get out. We could go back 3 miles to a spot we had seen earlier or we push on to St Ives. That would make it a 41 mile day.
Despite having already paddled 30 miles we pushed on. The tide was once again in our favour but we could lose the daylight if we didn’t make decent progress. We felt good, our aches and pains had disappeared, maybe the training was paying off, or maybe there was something special in that BLT bap back at Sennen.
With an amazing sunset lighting our way and illuminating the cliffs we pushed on. At 9pm we pulled into St Ives. After securing a place to sleep we moved the boats. It was a long carry and hard work probably more punishing than the 41 mile paddle. Still we were elated with our epic little Day 2.
Right I’m off to get breakfast. Have a great day all!
Well that was emotional. Thought I would try and beat Geoff down to Porthcurnick on day 1 and get my kit loaded before he arrives. He is always so much quicker than me at getting sorted each morning on expedition. It has become something of a competition each day when we are away on kayak trips. We agreed to meet at 7am so I thought I’d get down there at 6.45 and get one over him. Bloomin typical he was already there! Along with Sue and their beautiful family.
Anyway, what a glorious morning to start an expedition. Sunshine always makes you feel better.
And to see so many friends turn out to see us off was quite something. Think we both must have had some salt in our eyes as we both teared up.
By the time we had said goodbye to friends and family it was time to go. At 8.05am we launched, turned the boats to face the shore and gave one last wave to say thank you and take care while we are gone.
Tanya, with her new found passion for swimming was already in the icy water and swam over for one last kiss, forgetting kayaks are a little wobbly at the best of times. So we settled for a hand squeeze. Blimey I love that woman so much.
Anyhow Day 1 Friday 3rd May – 26.2 Miles in a ‘oner’ and we landed at Mullion Cove. Beautiful day but headwinds all day. We had planned to get to Lamorna but that would have meant another 14 miles open crossing of Mounts Bay into a Force 4 at the end of an already great day. Why spoil it we thought.
We sat in the evening sunshine in Mullion chatting to Johnny a fisherman and also the harbour master. After heating up a curry I made the night before we got our heads down, memories from the first day spinning through our heads.
Thank you all for your messages and support it means so much to us.
The forecast for the start of May is improving. No more excuses, we are off 8am on 3rd May.
With just a handful of days before Geoff and I set off, for the first time we both feel we are almost ready. Whilst we have spoken about this trip for a few years now, preparations and training didn’t start in earnest until January this year. We have covered more miles in training both on the water and on ergometers than we have for previous expeditions and, as perhaps a sign of our aging bodies, more time with physios and chiropractors too!
There have been, and still are, mixed emotions. We are looking forward to the adventures ahead, the wildlife, the scenery, meeting people along the way and hearing their stories. But we are also under no illusion how tough a challenge this will be for us both. Four months is a long time to sit in a kayak and live in a tent. It’s an even longer time to be away from home and family. As I lie here in bed writing this post, I genuinely don’t know whether we will complete it. But then it wouldn’t be the challenge it is if we did. As news of our trip starts to spread, it has all become very real. No turning back now!
Andy taking a break from paddling and smiling for the camera on the west coast of Ireland in 2015
We are using the same boats we had round Ireland in 2015, Kirton C-Trek 18s, but we have spent a lot of time and effort making sure they are in the best shape before we set off. Geoff’s living room floor, and my bedroom floor, have become expedition kit rooms as we assemble what we might need over the next four months. We are now starting to pack everything in dry bags ready to load the boats on Friday morning before we set off. Tanya is horrified at how little we take in the way of clothes for 4 months – although Geoff assures me that he has double the pairs of pants he is taking this time, to 4.
Our boats weigh around 26kgs empty and between 65-70kgs when full of kit food and water. Although, if I can sneak some of my kit into Geoff’s boat while he isn’t looking I’m hoping the carry a lot less!
Thank you to those who have very generously donated to our three charities already! Every £ donated gives Geoff and I another reason why we have to complete this challenge. So far you have given us 700 reasons. Thank you!
Midlifekayak 