Midlifekayak

Sitting in a bar in Baltimore, the last town before we head up the West Coast, just reflecting on what an incredible week we’ve just had.

Sorry the blogs have been a bit intermittent but we don’t always seem to have data connections.

In our first eight days we’ve paddled 160 ish miles, seen some incredible scenery and wildlife and met some friendly and generous people.

The coastline has already lived up to its reputation. As we’ve paddled west the cliffs have started to grow and look increasingly dramatic. Whilst the majority of paddling has been headland to headland stuff leaving us a few miles offshore, each new bay that reveals itself seems to be even more jaw droppingly beautiful than the last. And that’s not meant to be an insult to the east end of the south coast, it’s all good.

We’ve paddled with flocks of Guillemots and of Shearwaters circling our boats, coming in low to check us out and peeling off at the last minute climbing to circle and come round again. We’ve been given high dive demonstrations by fishing Gannets and entertained by the comedians of the sea bird world, the Razor Bill, which look for all the world like a cross between a penguin and a duck (well to me anyway). They look so clumsy in the air but once in the water look serene. We’ve also seen Chuffs and Puffins and lots of birds we didn’t know the names of.

And then yesterday, perhaps the highlight of the wildlife week, we had just launched from a stunning sheltered bay on Galley Head and discovered a basking shark feeding just offshore. We stayed peacefully alongside it for a few minutes as the 3 to 3.5m beauty filtered the water alongside and under our boats. An amazing experience – the photos don’t do it justice.

We’ve met some more great people. Jon Hynes and his lovely family, put us up in their house in Kinsale, washed our clothes, fed us and took us on a stunning tour of the Old Head of Kinsale (particularly fascinating for me as it is where  my family are from originally). Jon is also a very gifted paddler and outdoor pursuits instructor and guide. He knows his stuff and spent a couple of hours sharing his knowledge of the West Coast with us.

Check out Jon’s new website http://www.seakayakaroundireland.com

Jon is also paddling around Ireland this summer. Geoff and I are fully expecting him to overtake us pretty soon after he starts!

Last night we were camped in a stunning sheltered spot in Glandore Bay. We got chatting to friends Louise and Kat. A little while later, their husbands, Rob and Matt, came down to the beach with BBQ fish, potatoes and some wine. The problem was that Geoff was asleep and knowing how much he values his rest, I decided it was in his best interests that I should eat the fish. We ate the potatoes on our paddle into Baltimore this morning. 

So thanks Jon, Kat, Louise, Matt and Rob! It is meeting people like your goodselves that is making this trip so special.

 Neptune and the weather gods have been kind to us this week. We’re both increasingly apprehensive about facing the West Coast and the Atlantic swell but also excited about the adventures it has in store for us.

The week has at times been an emotional roller coaster. The “why?” Question eats away at you when you feel tired and vulnerable but as we build the mileage, that will ease.

A selection of snaps from the last few days…

One thing about these trips that amazes me, is just how many experiences seem to be squeezed into just one day.

We got up around 6am having slept reasonably well in our bivy bags. By the time I arrived back from a trip to the public toilets, Geoff had already been given a cuppa by our lovely neighbours, and very soon I had one too. 

We were packed up, said our goodbyes and launched by 8.15. Leaving the Saltee Islands behind us we set off on the 15 mile crossing to Hook’s Head. Using our compasses we headed almost due west (with a pinch of South in it). Within a couple of hours we were properly alone on the water with the sun on our backs and making good progress.

A good day for wildlife, we saw our first Guillemots,Razor Bills, a solitary Puffin and a sleeping bull seal – vertical in the water.  Starting to feel like the expedition has started.

After a stop for lunch in Slade, we pushed on a few miles to Tramore and pulled into small fishing harbour which we discovered was also home to the RNLI.

To cut a long story short – what then followed was our second experience of incredible Irish hospitality. Pretty soon the local RNLI had arranged for us to store the boats and give us a place to sleep. Geoff and I headed off into town in search of food and our first Guinness.

On getting back, a car and a chap on a bike pulled up -Mick O’Meara and Dermot Blount. Both of them had paddled round Ireland in 1990 and set the record which stood for over 20 years. We enjoyed hearing some of their stories over a glass of wine and picking up some tips for our trip. Great to meet them both. Thanks both for your hospitality!

And also a big thank you to Dave O’Hanlon and the RNLI boys for looking after us so well……and for the life boat escort out of the bay the next morning. (So exciting!)