Last night we pulled into Brandon Bay after a stunning 22 miles along the north side of the Dingle Peninsula. Mountains meet the sea and make for a breathtaking backdrop to our paddle. The size of the cliffs plays with your perspective and only a passing gull against them gives you a hint that what you are looking at is not a couple of hundred metres away but more like a couple of miles. Everything on this side of Ireland’s coast seems immense.
The landscape even shapes the local weather. Despite the forecast being for F3/4, the hills and mountains funnel and accelerate the winds, particularly in the afternoons it seems, and we often experience sustained F6 gusts.
It had not been a long day but it was a good day in that it set us up nicely for our most committed and open crossing yet – across Kerry Head and the mouth of the Shannon up to Loop Head.
We tucked the boats away by the side of the harbour wall and walked all of 20 yards to a great pub, ordered a pint and some grub.
A little later that evening I popped down to the Harbour to check on the boats only to to see a shivering man getting changed. It was Mick O’Meara, who met us in Tramore. He had set off last Thursday and had already caught us. He’s been averaging 45 miles a day!
We helped Mick with his kayak and returned to the bar for a beer and a catch up.
A couple of beers and a slug of Lagavulin later we climbed into our tents having agreed to do the crossing together the next day.
We were up and on the water by 07.45 and heading north east. To our right we could see Kerry Head about 12 miles away. That would be the only land we would see until about half way across the 23 mile open crossing. Loop Head is on fairly low lying cliffs and so we had to trust that our bearing (and our ability to stick to it) would deliver us on target.
Mick has access to some very detailed localised forecasts which suggested we should expect a south westerly wind all day F4/5. We knew that the wind would be stronger until we escaped the clutches of the mountains around Brandon point.
And so we set off with a solid F6 behind us, pushing us along at around 5 or 6 miles and hour. From the off we told Mick that if he fancied pushing on he should, and not let us hold him back. But I think he and us welcomed the company on such a committed crossing.
The miles were soon ticking away and as we left the mountains of the Dingle Peninsula behind us, the wind did die down to a F5. But we were now exposed to Atlantic swell around four metres. Progress slowed a little to around 4.5 miles an hour which we felt was ok given the confused state of the sea. Geoff and I could tell Mick could easily have squeezed his speed up a few notches. We hoped he wasn’t too frustrated being held back by us.
The conditions were testing but comfortable. Every so often a swell would crest and break over the boat requiring a brace stroke to keep upright and to keep a straight course.
One slightly comical moment was when Mick and I were chatting only to both turn round at the same time to see what must have been a seven metre swell behind us with a rather composed Geoff trying to surf down it.
I think it was at that moment we thought that this was going to be a big day.
Ten miles in and now and again as we rose up on each swell we could see Loop Head appearing in the low mist. We were on course.
Kerry Head now behind us after three hours, we were half way across and just entering the mouth of the Shannon.
Another hour and a half later and after a precarious pee stop, our minds turned to what kind of sea awaited us around Loop Head. The south west swell would be reflecting back off the cliffs and causing all manner of mayhem – clapotis, pyramid shaped waves that appear without warning and thrust you and the boat in the air with no solid water around to brace your paddle on for support.
The only sensible option was to give Loop Head a wide berth – a mile or so.
It would be each paddler for himself for the next hour and a half as we made our way past the headland. Swells seemed to be hitting us from all directions now. Time to really concentrate. We could just make out tourists on the cliffs looking out. What must they have made of us three mad kayakers!
The clapotis died down and the tension eased. We’d made it without mishap and any time you test yourself in conditions you learn a little more. Geoff and I stopped on the water and had a sandwich. Mick had pushed on and landed in a bay for a stretch and food. We figured he would catch us pretty quick – and he did.
Just 14 more miles to Kilkee, but the swell kept us focused. This coastline is littered with reefs which cause the swell to rise up and break and are to be avoided (to put it mildly)
Finally after around 9.5 hours and 39 miles we said goodbye to Mick as he pushed on up the coast and we negotiated the reef in Kilkee bay and sought safe landing.
We are now a third of the way round and hope to be on the Aran Islands by Friday. Today however the winds have kept us off the water. I think we are both relieved to have a day off after paddling ten days in a row.
Thank you Cynthia and Liz for your generous donations! Means a lot to us.
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Midlifekayak 