Midlifekayak

Everyday on these expeditions is an adventure and a roller coaster of emotions.

Last night we slept (or didn’t in my case) on the harbour wall in Ardmore next to our kayaks. Through our bivi bags we could still feel the sun’s warmth that had been retained in the concrete. By morning that warmth had gone and we both wrapped more and more layers over ourselves until it was time to get up.

The sun was up and already shining on half of the slipway. Perfect opportunity to allow us to lay out all our kit and dry it before packing away.

I was just climbing out of my bivi when we heard someone shout from the road above “Do you want tea?”.

We both stuck our thumbs up and nodded enthusiastically.

Next thing we know, the kind offer of tea had escalated into showers followed by a two course breakfast.

Jackie, is a top class swimming coach from Loughton in east London but married an Irish fisherman from Ardmore over 40 years ago. Over the next hour or so, as Jackie rustled up an amazing breakfast, we heard all about her amazing family and her career and learned more about life in Ardmore.

It is spontaneous experiences of human generosity like Jackie showed to us this morning, that make expeditions so special. Geoff and I won’t remember all the miles we paddled but we will remember all the encounters with wonderful people along the way.

On the water only 5 mins and we met the local lobster fisherman Michael and his dog Oscar. I had to take some photos so we stopped and chatted. Apparently Oscar is famous because he ‘befriended’ the walrus that visited southern Ireland a few years back.

From the highlight of meeting two incredible people (and a dog) we then got on with the paddling. Two long open crossings ahead of us, one straight after the other. Knockadoon Head followed by Ballycotton. Although we had the morning tide against us we did have an easterly wind for assistance, but open crossings can be a drag. It is much more fun paddling alongside cliffs. There is more to see and distract yourself from the miles. This coastline is stunning.

When sessions drag on, it is easy for the mind to start questioning why on earth we are doing this trip. Sometimes if you allow yourself the chance to think about the enormity of it all it can be quite intimidating.

Still, the miles clicked down and with about 16 miles we pulled into Ballycotton. The aim was to have a break, stretch the legs and get some provisions. Unfortunately no shop. The local store had closed down a few years ago.

Geoff and I stayed in Ballycotton on the way round Ireland in 2015 but couldn’t remember it until we saw the lifeboat station. We recognised the steep steps and the concrete platform on which we had had a cold wet bivi. Fond memories (Ha!)

The lifeboat mechanic and coxswain were at the RNLI Station, so we popped in to blag some water and asked about getting provisions. It didn’t look like we were going to get any for a few days. That would be a problem but the great Wild Atlantic Warrior, Jon Hynes who lives up in Kinsale had already been in touch.

Jon and his mate, Sean Cahill, paddled round Ireland the same year as we did and in a cracking time. Jon and his lovely family were so generous and put us up for the night when we got to Kinsale and washed kit and fed us.

I rang Jon. Great to hear his voice. Always positive and upbeat. We would get to Kinsale Old Quay tomorrow at lunchtime and his daughter Aoife would pick us up and take us to the local store.

Jon, who is a very experienced sea kayaking and outdoor instructor then said, “you boys are making great progress, but you need to push round Mizen before Saturday”

The weather that has blessed us so far is changing. Mizen marks the start of the West Coast and is a formidable place in bad weather. Getting round Mizen and up to Dursey Island whilst the weather is fair would be key.

Back on the water we pushed on. We now had tide and wind in our favour. We had planned on getting to Gyleen, but when we rounded Powerhead, we felt good and decided to push on another 7 miles to Roberts Cove.

As the sun was starting to set we crossed Cork Harbour, avoiding the shipping. The romantic in me reflecting on my ancestors who were from Cork. I wondered if they had ever seen the bay and the harbour from a boat this far out and seen how beautiful it looks.

As we got close to Robert’s Cove there was an air of anticipation as we didn’t know whether we could land there. And if we could, was there somewhere to sleep.

The Cove faces south east and we were paddling due west so it wasn’t until the last minute that it revealed itself. It wasn’t just a safe haven it was a little bit of Irish paradise.

Geoff and I recognised it instantly. We had stopped here before for lunch last time, and it was here we spotted a basking shark.

We made a lentil curry and pitched our tents on a patch of grass. Perfect.

The plan for the next few days is to push on and get to Baltimore by Wednesday to give us a chance to start heading north round Mizen on Thursday and Friday before the weather changes.

The infamous West Coast is almost upon us.